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With the result that an upward force is now acting on the (now unsupported) section of the frame, and in essence bending the frame up.

The width in the top of the door gap can be as much as 3/4 of an inch or more. If a repair has been completed without this problem of the frame lifting being addressed there will be a problem with the door alignment.
To try and address the wide door gap by lifting the rear of the body on the body mounts by using shims on the rear will not work too well. It will take an inch or more of shims to lift the body high enough to alter the door gap by 1/4 of an inch. Before starting any welding work to repair the frame it is quite important to ensure the frame itself is straight. You can use the body of the car to do this simply by jacking the frame at the ends until you end up with the correct door gap and go from there.

You have now seen the progression of the frame though the TR series and of course there were serious body and style changes as well. I think that overall the steps from the TR2 up to the TR6 were a logical progression in terms of style and mechanical improvements. The only glitch was the removal of the support on the frame. Yet it must have seemed like a good idea at the time and really has only proved to be a problem when there is corrosion problems in the frame. I have seen plenty of TR6 without a door alignment or frame problems but all have had no signs of serious corrosion problems.

Written by James Doolin ©2019